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If you’ve ever noticed water around your spa and wondered where it’s coming from, you’re in the right place. Today, I’ll take you through dealing with a pesky leak I found in my spa.
With some detective work, I traced the issue to a light assembly with a steady drip at the base. This meant it was time to take things apart, dry it out, and see what needed replacement to stop the leak.
After removing panels and draining the tub, I identified the culprit and got down to the business of fixing it.
Once the new assembly arrived, I installed it, checked for leaks, and hoped for a dry spa experience. Join me as I share how it all turned out.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- I found and fixed a leak in my spa.
- A new light assembly was installed.
- The spa no longer leaks after testing.
🛠 Tools & Materials
- ✔️ 5″ Clear Light Housing Assembly – https://amzn.to/42joMBz
- ✔️ Spa Silicone – https://amzn.to/423Yz8J
- ✔️ Ryobi 18v Impact Drill – https://amzn.to/4l5jiBX
- ✔️ Channel Lock Pliers – https://amzn.to/3RoS23A
- ✔️ Knee Pad – https://amzn.to/3QRINJ5
- ✔️ Hot Tub Wash – https://amzn.to/3G0kxC4
- ✔️ Sump Pump – https://amzn.to/4c6eYhu
- ✔️ Continental 50′ Garden Hose – https://amzn.to/4iOrIfu
Video
Identifying the Issue
Initial Assessment
I noticed water pooling around the bottom of the spa. My first thought was a loose connection might be causing the problem.
To begin, I opened up the tub and moved the stairs.
I focused on removing the end panels and one side panel to get a better look inside, trying to pinpoint where the water was coming from.

It was clear that there was a substantial amount of water gathering under the unit.
Discovering the Leak
Inspecting further, I found a light at the bottom of the spa that seemed to have a steady leak. Water was dripping from a connection near this light.
To deal with this, I planned to drain the spa and remove the light assembly.
I aimed to replace the gasket and apply a bit of silicone, hoping this would fix the issue.
By putting a small sump pump in, I was able to get all the water out of the bottom.
With everything dried, I could better confirm if there were any additional leaks when I refilled the spa.
Preparing for Repair
Draining the Spa

First, it’s important to drain the spa to get all the water out. There’s a drain valve that makes this pretty simple.
I hook a hose to the valve and turn a petcock to start draining. It takes about an hour.
While it’s draining, I like to take out the filter for cleaning or replacement, depending on its condition.
This is also a good time for a general cleanup of the spa.

Cleaning the Filter
The filter in the spa only had three months of use, so I decided to give it a detergent bath and rinse it well. This keeps it in good shape.
Cleaning the filter regularly helps maintain water quality and the overall performance of the spa.
Sump Pump Usage
After draining most of the spa, I use a small sump pump to remove any remaining water from the bottom. This makes it easier to work on the light assembly and ensures the area is dry.
Once the water is completely gone, I set up a fan to dry everything out before proceeding with the repairs.
Drying and Diagnostics
Opening the Tub Sides
I kick things off by removing the end panels and one side of the tub. This is key for tracking down where any water is leaking from.
With the panels off, I discovered a steady leak coming from the light assembly at the bottom. That’s where the water was coming from.
It’s important to keep the sides off until I’m sure the leak is fixed.
Using a Fan to Dry

Next, I put a fan on the open sides to dry up the area completely. Running it for a few hours does the trick.
Making sure everything is dry is critical before moving on to other steps. This way, I can be certain if any new leaks appear when water is added back.
Inspecting for Additional Leaks
After drying, I checked around the tub for any further leaks.
With fresh water added back, I leave it overnight to be sure.
It’s vital to inspect under the tub and other connections. Finding no other leaks means the light assembly replacement worked, and everything else is right where it should be.
Disassembling the Light
Removing the Light Ring
First, I used a large pair of channel locks to loosen the ring around the light.
It’s important to hold the inside of the lens while spinning off the ring, or it’ll just keep spinning and you’ll get frustrated.
With the ring off, I could easily remove the light from its place.
Retrieving the Light Assembly
Once I got the ring off, I pulled out the light assembly.
The gasket looked mostly intact, but I decided it was better to be cautious.
The environment inside the spa can be tough on gaskets, especially when it’s a few years old. I wanted to make sure everything was in good shape.
Deciding to Order a New Part
After reviewing the condition of the parts, I chose to order a new light assembly.

It costs around $50, so it’s a small price for peace of mind.
The new kit comes complete with a fresh gasket, lens, and nut. This should keep us from having to deal with any leaks again soon.
Once it arrived, I used marine silicone on the gasket to seal it properly before installing it back into the tub.
Tips for Removal and Installation
- Prepare the Area: Before I start, I make sure to open the tub and remove the stairs to access the panels. This helps get to the source of the problem.
- Draining the Spa: I use the built-in drain valve and attach a hose. This usually takes about an hour. During this time, I like to clean or replace the filter.
- Drying the Interior: After draining, I use a sump pump for any remaining water and set up a large fan. This ensures everything is dry before I start working.
- Removing the Light Assembly: To take out the light, I use a large pair of channel locks and rotate the ring. I hold the inside of the lens while doing this to prevent it from spinning.
- Installing the New Light Assembly: The new assembly comes with a gasket and lens. I add a bit of marine silicone to the gasket before putting it back. It’s important not to overtighten; hand-tightening is enough.
- Testing for Leaks: After installing, I fill the tub with water a few inches over the light. This helps check for any leaks. If everything is dry, I put the sides back on and fill the tub completely.
Ordering and Receiving the New Light Assembly
I decided to order a new light assembly online. The seller was “The Spa Guy,” and was purchased by Amazon. The service was impressive!
Although I expected it by Tuesday, it arrived several days early, on Thursday.
The light assembly included a new gasket, lens, and nut. To install, I got some marine silicone with excellent reviews. I included just a little silicone on the gasket for a better seal.


After hand-tightening the nut to avoid any damage, I filled the tub with water just above the new light to check for leaks. Everything seemed perfect with no leaks detected.
I keep the sides of the tub closed after any work to prevent critters from getting inside. It’s always good to be cautious!
After making sure there were no leaks overnight, I reattached the light and continued with cleaning the tub, all set without any troubles.
Installing the Replacement
Applying Silicone
I used marine silicone for this task because it got great reviews online.
First, I cut the end of the silicone tube and used the cap to pierce the top. Then I ran a bead around the inside of the new gasket.
It’s important to smooth it out with a finger to ensure a good seal.
Attaching the New Assembly
With the silicone applied, I inserted the light lens into the tub and started threading the nut by hand.
It’s crucial not to overtighten it; snug is good enough. Leaving the light out initially helps me keep an eye on any potential leaks when I refilled the tub.
Testing for Leaks
After installing the new assembly, I added water to the tub, making sure it rose a few inches above the light.
By letting it sit overnight, I could check for leaks the next day.
Everything stayed dry, and the water level didn’t drop, confirming a successful installation.
Finalizing the Repair
Ensuring No Further Leaks
I ordered a new light assembly, and thankfully, it arrived much sooner than expected.
First, I used marine silicone around the outside of the new gasket.
After putting it in place, I hand-tightened the nut carefully, just enough to prevent leaks without overtightening.
I then added water in the tub to a few inches above the light level and left it overnight to check for any drips. Happy to report, everything looked dry and secure.
Reassembling the Tub
Once I was confident there were no leaks, I buttoned up the sides of the tub. Leaving them open is not a great idea where I live due to curious critters and pets.
After fitting everything back together, the next step was to turn my attention to the inside.
Cleaning and Refilling the Tub
With repairs complete, I cleaned the inside of the tub using a good tub wash.
After that, I filled it back up, turned on the heat, and watched it come back to life. No leaks, a fresh clean, and all systems go—all set for a relaxing soak.
Successful Repair Confirmation

I installed the new LED light housing and ran a test. The water was filled just a couple of inches above the light.
Initial checks looked promising. I didn’t notice any leaks around the repaired area. I let it sit overnight, checking a couple of times during the day.
After 24 hours, I’m pleased to report that the water levels remained steady, keeping nicely above the light. The area under the tub stayed completely dry, confirming the repair was a success.
Next, I carefully reassembled the sides of the tub to keep out any curious critters. With everything in place, I gave the inside a good cleaning using some tub wash. Finally, I filled the tub, turned it on, and let it heat up, ready for use!